Journey through the past and present in historic Phnom Penh

Rich history. Breathtaking views. Chaotic streets. Amazing food. Trendy nightlife.

These and so many other adjectives describe Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, not to mention Culture with a capital C. Hop into a tuk-tuk and soon you’ll be whizzing through a city dotted with majestic ancient temples, impressive museums and a hodge-podge of architectural styles from French to Khmer. There’s a time and place to discover the many faces of Cambodia: the sombre reminder of the Khmer Rouge killing fields; the tranquillity of the Tonle Sap River; and the lively cacophony of Central Market.

There’s only one way to experience Phnom Penh - jump right into it. Because there isn’t a proper bus or subway network, most people get around by tuk-tuk or taxi. Staying at Capri by Fraser Phnom Penh and Capri by Fraser, City Centre Phnom Penh puts you right in the middle of the action, with many major historic sights as well as trendy bars and restaurants just a few minutes’ ride away.

Of temples, palaces and a tragic past

With Phnom Penh’s long history - dating all the way back to the 1400s, this is one city that will keep history and culture buffs occupied for hours.

Just a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from Capri by Fraser Phnom Penh is the Royal Palace - the jewel of Phnom Penh with its magnificent cluster of gilded-roofed buildings that are still home to Cambodia’s king Norodom Sihamoni. A visit to the city isn’t complete without a stroll through its sprawling grounds, admiring the meticulous detail of each structure. Come early to avoid the crowds, and check out the throne hall and the Silver Pagoda, named for the thousands of silver tiles that line its floors, and the stunning Buddha sculptures within.

Wat Phnom is another significant monument in Phnom Penh, named for the city’s founder, Lady Penh. The 46-metre high pagoda is a symbol of the name Phnom Penh, as well as the Khmer national identity. Also an important symbol for the city is the Independence Monument, which was built in 1958 to commemorate Cambodia’s independence from French rule in 1953.

Not far from the Royal Palace is the National Museum, itself a building that personifies Khmer architecture at its best. Inside is a living history lesson with a priceless collection of Khmer art and artefacts that can be traced back to prehistoric times.

It would be hard to visit Phnom Penh without acknowledging the darkest part of its history. The killing of millions of people during the Khmer Rouge regime is never forgotten at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. The site was a secondary school before it became one of many prisons that tortured and executed thousands during Pol Pot’s rule. It’s not an easy visit, but it’s also a way of paying your respects while appreciating even more the resilience of  the Cambodian people and how far they’ve come since.

To market, to market

Unleash your inner shopping and hungry demon at Central Market, Phnom Penh’s most famous shopping destination housed under a massive, iconic dome built by the French government in the 1930s. Think of it as a Cambodian version of Bangkok’s Chatuchak market, but with better ventilation. Everything you can think of is found within the Art Deco-style central dome and several ‘arms’ that radiate outwards. Test your bargaining skills as you shop for everything from clothes to jewellery and homeware, and wander through the stalls selling live seafood and fresh vegetables before stopping for a bite of street food. Sample beef noodles, fish amok (spiced fish steamed in banana leaves), rice with charcoal-grilled pork, Cambodian doughnuts noum kong and a dizzying array of exotic dishes to suit every taste.

To see where locals shop, head to the Russian market, which is smaller and less chaotic but still fascinating with arts and crafts and super-fresh local produce. When the market closes at 4pm, food stalls take over, so you can dig into seafood BBQ, meaty kebabs and fruit shakes. For the more adventurous, you can dive deeper and visit Orussey Market, Boueng Keng Kang Market (5 minutes’ drive from Capri by Fraser Phnom Penh) and Doeurm Kor Market for an authentic taste of local life.

Riverside attractions

Phnom Penh sits at the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, which makes a walk along the Sisowath Quay a must. The riverside park offers a calm respite from the city chaos. Here, you’ll find locals enjoying time out with their children and fitness enthusiasts out for a run as boats idle along the bank. Enjoy the riverside view from the first floor terrace of La Croisette, which started out as a French restaurant in 1997 and now serves family-friendly fare such as Austrian flammkuchen, pizzas and ice cream.

^{Image credit to Cuisine Wat Damnak}

A melting pot of food & drink

Phnom Penh is a foodie paradise, with such amazing variety that you can eat your way through authentic Khmer cuisine while enjoying French, Italian, Chinese, Indian and other styles of cooking at the same time. Tonle Bassac is a thriving district filled with trendy restaurants and bars so it’s a great place to explore, especially as it’s so close to Capri by Fraser Phnom Penh.

One of the best restaurants in the neighbourhood is Malis which offers fine dining Khmer cuisine by celebrity chef Luu Meng, who is determined to preserve the unique flavours of his heritage.

For something more casual, especially if you’d like sample the local street food but is not too adventurous, Sovanna II Restaurant is the answer. Dig into seafood, rice, noodles and barbecued meat that’s bursting with authentic flavours in clean, bright surroundings.

Bar-hoppers will find plenty of hip watering holes in Bassac Lane around Street 308. It has a western expat vibe, and is a haven for beer lovers with every variety available. Red Bar, which is close to Malis, is one of the oldest, with cheap beer and a lively ambience. Cloud is a creative arts space that combines drinks and culture.

Another nearby district to check out is Boeung Keng Kang, one of the busiest commercial areas in the city that’s also full of cafes and restaurants. Backyard Cafe (St 63, BKK 1) is a 7-minute walk from Capri by Fraser Phnom Penh and is popular for its coffee and vegetarian menu.

If you want to indulge, Cuisine Wat Damnak  comes highly recommended for its elegant Cambodian cuisine with a French twist. Chef Johannes Riviere prepares a gourmet experience with ingredients sourced mainly from local farms and villages in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

And to wind down for the day, the rooftop bar Sundown Social Club is the right place to be for cool cocktails and a view that overlooks the Russian market.  Order a pina colada or banana daiquiri and watch the sun go down over the captivating and colourful city of Phnom Penh.